May 2025

  There are no windows in the Carlton conference hall, only chandeliers sagging heavy with diamonds and leaking a grim fluorescence. The carpet is an Escheresque swirl of browns and tans, and the chairs and crown moldings are slathered in gold. Outside it’s cold—4 degrees to be exact. Insid

  This is mid-week cooking at its best—long, laborious and deeply discomforting. Traipse through the door at six, unfeeling, you’re too tired to do anything but this only takes two hours. Dinner comes together in three pans and your rusty Le Creuset, which makes washing up a dream. It could

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